It is early morning.
I wake up and occupy the seat near window. My bus is few kilometers
away from Udaipur. This is my first visit to Rajasthan. For me
Rajasthan has always been about deserts, camels, folk songs and
dances. However I am unable to spot any desert or sand. What I see is
lush greenery everywhere.
Its seven in the
morning. The bus drops me at the bus stand. It is chilling cold. I
have a cup of tea on the road side shanty. I enquire at one of the
numerous travel booking offices about day trips and sight-seeing
packages. “The bus will leave at 8.30 am” He tells me. I abandon
the plan to board the bus. I want to freshen up.
I am staying at an
artist's place near Amba Mata Temple. No wonders the room though
spartan has been done aesthetically. There is painting of haveli
adorning the wall. Another one has a framed picture of Srinathji.
Colours and palette are neatly placed in the rack. I have hot water
bath. As I come out of the bathroom I am still shivering. I had made
travel plans for Rajasthan thinking that it would be pleasant in the
month of December. But it is chilling cold. I wear layered clothing
and hop into the auto which is going to take me around Udaipur.
| Me at Rana Pratap Smarak |
My auto skirts on the border of the massive Fateh Sagar Lake. Udaipur though in Rajasthan has no dearth of water. The auto comes to a screeching halt. The driver asks me if I want to visit Rana Pratap Smarak. He tells me there is nothing much to see except a small garden. I don't want to miss on anything and I decide to visit it. I am required to purchase a ticket. In Udaipur you have to purchase tickets everywhere. The tickets are priced at the higher end. I am disappointed for the garden has nothing to offer apart from a statue of Rana Pratap and murals depicting his life and times. When I ask a local caretaker as to what connection the garden has with the warrior king, I am being told that he had stayed there for twenty years.
| Rana Pratap Smarak |
Our next destination
is Saheliyon ki baari. It is nothing more than a fountain housed within four walls and surrounded by a beautiful garden.
| Saheliyon ki Baari |
We go to Shilpagram
next. The driver tells me that it is a village recreated. He gives me
one hour to visit it. It turns out to be just another handloom and
handicraft sale displaying wares of different States. Yes there were
some folk performances as well. But perhaps I was there at the wrong
time.
Monsoon palace was a
hunting lodge. It is perched atop Banswara hill. It was built by
Sajjan Singh. Hence it is also known as Sajjan Garh. The auto dropped
me at the base. I purchased tickets for the palace as well for the
conveyance which was to take me to the top of the hill. The trained
car driver adroitly manoeuvred through the serpentine path leading to
the top. The small journey offered breathtaking views. I came across
a group of cyclers who were cycling to the top. I throughly enjoyed
this ride. I understood the true meaning of the term enjoy the
journey and not the destination.
| Monsoon Palace |
| View from a jharoka at the monsoon palace |
City palace is a
museum which again charges exorbitant entry fees and does not even
offer a complimentary guide. It is the largest palace in Rajasthan.
It was founded by Udai Singh in the 16th century, after whom the city
is named Udaipur. The palace is actually conglomeration of palaces
built over a period spread over more than 400 years. Still it looks
surprisingly sync, one piece creation. It houses two hotels – Shiv
Niwas and Fateh Prakash. The palace was too crowded with visitors.
Its wall paintings have been restored. Narrow passages and steep
staircases take you to the terraces and the apartments. But the crowd
and the absence of any one to guide you is a huge disappointment. A
visit to city palace turns you on and leaves unsatisfied.
Jagdish Temple is at
a stone's throw from the city palace museum. It was built in 1651.
One has to climb steep stairs to reach the temple. The temple is
worth a visit. Black idol of Jagannath it the chief diety of the
temple. This temple is built in the typical Mewad style architecture.
| View of the lake from Bagore ki Haveli |
Bagore ki Haveli,
told the driver, was the place which housed the attendants of the
palace, particularly those who looked after the huge fleet of
elephants, horses and camels. The haveli has been restored. A room
has been kept deliberately unrestored to give the visitor an idea of
before and after state of the haveli first hand. Unlike the crowded
city palace this haveli gives you solitude and lets the royal
architecture seep inside you. It offers beautiful views of the lake
pichola from its roof top. It depicts Rajasthani art and culture
through the small museum it hosts.
| Bagore ki Haveli |
Udaipur – an
exotic location seen umpteen times in movies and romantic novels is
on everyone's wish list. But to me it was a huge disappointment. May
be perhaps I came with too many expectations. Had I been a firang
whose country never have had any monarchy and the resultant palaces, I
would have been swooned by the palaces and havelis which are now
converted into hotels and roof top restaurants.










